South Dakota is seriously underrated. Today was a great day to be out of the RV. This is one of the side effects of being "in" the RV so much on the road...once it's parked...you don't want to be in it. This turns into the kids adventuring out for bike rides and morning hunts. This morning was disappointing because we couldn't find a chipmunk or squirrel with a death wish to take down with the "spear" that Edward crafted from his (gift shop) arrowhead and...wait for it...duct tape. So, after pancakes and Nutella we ventured down the Mickelson trail (nothing to do with Phil) into Hill City. There we picked up a few select pieces of clothing, had some lunch, and visited the South Dakota state Dinosaur Museum. It's a big deal. We also visited Teddy Bear Town (not a joke). This is the Guinness Book of World Record holder, Jackie Miley (you can Google her) with a record 8,831 teddy bears in her shop (house). Only when traveling like this do you stop to see things like that. Special

 The afternoon was spent back in the campground (Rafter J) playing basketball, swimming, and hanging out in the little ENO village the kids have made at each site. We did get an afternoon hail storm which was weird because it's about 85 and was sunny all day. We have new duct tape on the other door and a small leak in the fan over our "living room". It's more of a "stomping around" and "sleeping" room since most living happens outside. I will give some serious kudos to Julie for whipping up some tasty BLT sandwiches tonight. It was a little difficult to manage the bacon (in the back of a van) and it has certainly attracted a few visitors (every species on the planet is drawn to frying bacon). The kids made S'mores tonight, but without a fire. Since the hail storm pretty much killed our fire making plans we stuck marshmallows on the hangers and I lit them on fire (one by one) with a match. If you're a "burner" and not a "goldener" it's not a bad way to go. Tonight...we were all "burners".

I really don't know where to begin. Have we had some issues with the RV? Yes. Am I still struggling with the septic system? Yes. Step number one in safely unloading the septic system is to check for a secure connection to the pump. Let your imagination go with that one...and then go a bit further...it's close to my morning yesterday. You're welcome. Have we spent about a month on the road after 6 days? Yes. But it has been spectacular. We weren't able to upload anything the past few days because of the shoddy coverage (which is actually glorious). 

In fact, it's strange to me that so much of the RV is designed around the TV. Where do you put it? How many are there? Do you have satellite? We have not yet turned either of our two satellite TV's on. We do have some great movies for such a moment...but it has not presented itself yet. It's been about as non-stop as we could have imagined. The Grit got into some rough spots yesterday due to road work in the Badlands park. She (we have decided it's a girl) performed wonderfully. For further amusement, we have started a new bet about our use of duct tape. The over/under on the number of furnishings and/or appliances that will be held together with duct tape by the end of the trip. Currently, after 6 days on the road it is on the closet, our bed, the door handle (thank you St. Louis thugs), the sun screen, and the dining table. Odds makers have the trip ending figure at 20.

Last night we stayed in the Badlands KOA. We had a great site with a pair of trees that the kids hooked their hammocks up to and we finally got the bikes off for a little sunset ride. Julie made tacos and we had a great fire. Reed and I finally got to shoot some hoops while the rest of the crew threw horseshoes and collected rocks.

We got out of the Badlands for a trip to Wall Drug and did Bear Country and Rushmore this afternoon. I must say (thank you Mark Williams) that Bear Country was a highlight. I can't really describe the excitement of the kids (and sheer terror) at the boldness of these semi-domesticated wild bears who were so at home with the cars that they literally ignored them...walking right next to open windows (ours was NOT open). Certainly this was Edward's moment...(he's been talking about it since we left Nashville). 

We have celebrated a few life moments on the road this week. We tried to explain to Grace and Edward that in Alabama, they're accepted.

We are also down one in the front of that California grin. Tooth fairy delivered a $3 receipt. She's from San Francisco.

The Longest Day: aka South Dakota has flies as big as Alabama birds

So yesterday (July 9) was the longest day of our trip (on paper). As you might imagine, the Grit was ready to leave Missouri in the rear view mirror...and the kids performed like little champs on the road. They have been a constant source of enjoyment (not a joke). We did hit Dicks Sporting Goods to replace a few backpacks and get some underwear. It turns out we were eligible for an upgrade on the one iPhone that was stolen...so after a stop at the Verizon store Reed has a new phone and my monthly bill went down by $2. We took an obligatory trip offline for a few moments to the Whole Foods store for toiletries and lunch. I had no idea Julie's shampoo was so pricey...or that there were so many "essential" oils. Really? The people of Omaha were welcoming...thank you Oracle Warren for nesting down in such a fine town. It feels fine to get out of the midwest and on to the real attractions. I'm not sure if the video is working...but hopefully you'll get a little flavor for the festive spirit of our travelers. 

 

The real blessing of reduced electronics has been the crafts and fort making in the back of the RV. I will complain only about their taste in music. As much interesting and honest music as I try to expose them to, it does very little to dissuade their passion for big hooks and bass drops from Taylor Swift, Meghan Trainor, WalktheMoon, and a long list of bad pop. I tried some Police, U2, Wilco, Tom Petty, Willie Nelson, etc...alas, no takers. 

The kids have been so glad to get out of the car, that every little stop usually turns into a roadside frolic.

We have stopped many times for supplies (gas) and bathrooms. Julie's favorite new game is finding a gem of a public restroom (hence the Whole Foods idea). Our liquid only policy for the Grit potty is really for my protection, but it also enhances the idea of a "pit stop". The good news is that it takes about 15 minutes to fill up the RV at full pump speed, so there's plenty of time.

Our evening headline: "I breathe heavy when these things happen" (Annie Trapp).

Today might be the day that lives in infamy on this trip (or the first of many). This morning, our septic pump broke and I dumped our tank on the ground before fumbling to re-engage the stopper. Of course this was after "the moment" that every RVer dreads, and let's just say it does involve poop on your shoe. The culprit of this vile offense was an unidentifiable piece of green plastic stuck in the rotors from being flushed (mysteriously by no one). This afternoon, while we were enjoying the trek from the Riverfront up to the courthouse to buy tickets for the Arch our RV was robbed and most of our electronics were taken courtesy of some East St. Louis thugs. We were in the city for a grand total of 2 hours to conquer the Arch and deal with some claustrophobia (way to go Deuce). And to top it off, this evening, we were kicked out of a taxi because of a lawsuit between competing cab companies and photographed for the deposition (apparently 6 travelers is too many). I could really write pages about each of these (embarrassingly) but am now resigned to just record some moments of these memories that we made today.

After the police report that Officer Simpson completed, it was on to I-70 West for about 200 miles into Kansas City. The real bright spot of the day has been the resiliency of the kids and the conversations we've had about where we store up our treasures, why we don't change our attitudes in the midst of a setback, and why Dad needs an extra cold beer at the baseball game. The crew was a little ragged after today, but as you can see, still in good spirits and enjoying this time together

As a point of clarification, in case you are reading our blog, it would help settle a minor family argument about the color of Julie's rain jacket. This consumed a lot of brain power and discussion of the color spectrum enroute to the Arch. I will not tell you the score of our evaluation, but it's close. Your choice is "green" or "blue". Please let us know in the comment section what you think. :)

Today in Nashville: Heavy Hearts

Some of you know Mike and Jennifer Graziano, our dear friends from Chicago who now live in Nashville, suffered a terrible loss last week. We spent the afternoon in Nashville celebrating the life of Tess, their precious daughter. I am including Mike's post as our blog entry today, which is beautifully written and I hope that it will bless those of you who knew her or felt like you did through prayers these past few weeks. Thanks for all of your concern for her and their family. Continue to pray for them.

In Mike's words: 

"Celia (heaven) Tess (to reap) Graziano began her journey with us in Nashville, TN on June 27, 2012. and ended it on Wednesday, July 1, 2015.

As we wrote in her official obituary Tess was a luminous, numinous, lightning bolt of a girl and the outsized wake of her sudden departure will roll equal parts hope and heartache for years to come

It's difficult to believe the terrible constellation of occurrences that seem to have aligned to snatch Tess from us in this early Spring of her life. Needless to say her passing has been a profound shock.

One point of light in this abyss is that, because her body was so healthy, Tess was an ideal candidate for organ donation. Even now her unbridled heart beats inside another child's body several time zones away. Such an achievement represents the best in mankind and does great honor to Tess's life and luminous spirit - there is perhaps no better way to do so. 

Despite (or maybe precisely because of) the unforeseen, accidental nature of Tess's tragic death the upshot is not about vigilance or proper intervention, but is about time and the fragile, borrowed rafts we use to float our small, finite stretch of its deep and vast expanse. If we're lucky we can lash ourselves one to another and cross our time together, and in this hold tight and true to neighbor and kin on bow, stern, port and starboard. Now and again the members of our delicate, makeshift armada must unmoor from us (and make way for unremembered shores). Others then adjust around the void - for the space can never be filled. We should take hope in this ... for this detachment awaits us all, but the armada moves on. Whatever you do, do not take this flotilla for granted. 

We have been overwhelmed by the concern and friendship of family, friends and the community. If you know us you know how much we value and are buoyed by our relationships with others and never has this been more true than during this terrible trial."

I could not help but notice the encouragement onward through the words of TS Elliot on the back of her memorial. A call onward, and as Mike suggests...a hopeful one...to move on and to be thankful for the ones that we love.

(and they're off...like a herd of turtles)

Famous Last Words: "If 70 year olds can do this year round, surely we can handle 1 month". Those were Julie's words of encouragement (challenge) ringing in my ears headed to Memphis for our first stop yesterday at the Graceland RV Park (Heartbreak Hotel). For those who have not had the privilege of driving a 30 foot C class RV on a Chevy 3500 chassis, it's a bit like a church van...pulling a church van...with a sail on top...add to that a camping stove rattling in your ear...on top of a propane tank...5 bikes on the back...and trucks passing on all sides. Side note...Mississippi, it's really time to fix your roads.


We did make it to Memphis and through our "itinerary" with great enjoyment. We got up to the top of the Peabody Hotel for the Duck Palace experience and to Beale St. for some BBQ and meandering.






As a Graceland veteran, I forget how spectacular Graceland is and what a fantastic story of Elvis they tell. It is a bit anticlimactic now since they have replaced the human tour guide interaction with iPads...and if you know anything of my family's great technical skills...you will know that those were a hit...worked like a charm...not frustrating at all. There was one family member, however, who was not as impressed. At the end of our day, when recounting all of the wonderful things we learned about Elvis and his music, Grace Trapp reminded us that..."he died on the toilet". Which although historically accurate, seemed really inappropriate...and also hilarious. Nothing like a little 6 year old perspective on life to bring us all back down.

This morning we made it down to the Arcade for a big breakfast before heading over to the National Civil Rights Museum. It has been well maintained and the archives are growing. I forget how recent 50 years ago actually is...but the museum is now collecting great oral history accounts from normal people who lived through those climactic years in the 60's when the South was desegregating. It's both encouraging and also frightening to see how appalled our children are at the common practice of slavery, discrimination, terrorism, and bigotry. Sweet Annie cried when she listened to one story of a little boy (James Thompson) who was beaten and jailed for kissing a white girl...at the age of 9.

Here we go again. It's been 5 years since our last blogpost when Grace came home and we are about to commence on a new family adventure. Our goal is 13 states, 4,500 miles, 3 national parks, 2 monuments, a few hikes, bike trips, baseball games, music festivals, and everything in between.

It's only fitting that on Father's Day I have a picture of my Dad and me with the new vessel, our Gulfstream (RV)...hereafter named 'The Gray Grit'...or 'The Grit' (thank you Dianne Y). My Dad was an epic adventurer in the Trickett station wagon...and later Oldsmobile Silhouette (aka...the Suppository). In Griswold style we took it across country over several summers and to Nashville 'the old way' more times than I can remember. So when it came time to pick up the Grit, Dad was of course up for the trip.

I could write a long post about our return trip and include some very embarrassing pictures. I won't do that, but let's just say that it would involve a C-Pap machine and Brooks Brothers pajamas. There would be an overnight in the Wal-Mart parking lot and a really awkward moment when I realized what supplies are involved to keep that C-Pap operating...forget the fact that the C-Pap machine required the RV generator to operate through the night. Thanks Dad.

So for those that want to follow along, get ready...we'll be leaving July 5 for the month of family adventure and will try to update this blog with pictures and journal entries from the kids.